Simply Cour-gous
Words and Pictures by Russell Brown
If the gifts from my friends who have allotments and the bulging market stalls are anything to go by, it is a good year for courgettes! This really is a favourite amongst gardeners and I can entirely see why; not only are they relatively easy to grow but being able to pick courgettes small and fresh is a real bonus. As courgettes grow larger, the seed content at the core increases and this tends to make them more watery. My mum was a very good cook but steamed marrow with cheese sauce is not a particularly pleasant memory, with the water leaking out of the oversized vegetable diluting what would have been a flavourful sauce!
If courgettes are small then using the whole vegetable isn’t an issue but, as they get larger, I tend to quarter them lengthwise and slice out the seeds before cooking them to give a firmer texture and better flavour. Two of my favourite ways with courgettes are to slice them around ½cm thick, toss with olive oil and seasoning, and then chargrill them. Once cooked, coat the slices in a good vinegary dressing, perhaps one with some chilli in it. The warm courgettes will soak up some of the dressing and they are then delicious tossed in salads or piled on chargrilled bread. The second way is to use a speed peeler to peel ribbons of courgette. Work your way around the vegetable to again leave the softer seeded core. These ribbons are then quickly sautéed in olive oil and garlic, again with some chilli if you like it. This then make a perfect bed for a piece of fish or a nice, fat pork chop.
All of the above ideas are about intensifying flavour and the same principle applies in the tart recipe below. The thin slices will lose some moisture and char a little in the hot oven, and the goat’s cheese adds richness. Oregano lends some pungency and garlic gives its savoury depth creating a perfect late summer lunch.
COURGETTE, GOAT’S CHEESE AND OREGANO TART
Serves 6 as a starter
For the sauce
- 1 clove of garlic, minced
- 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- 200ml tomato passata
- 100ml vegetable stock
For the tart
- 1 small clove of garlic, minced
- ½ tsp chopped oregano
- 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- 6 rough puff pastry discs 15cm x 4mm, docked and frozen
- 6 small courgettes, sliced around 4mm thick
- 120g soft goat’s cheese
- Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
To serve
- 40g small rocket leaves
- extra virgin olive oil
- Maldon sea salt
- good balsamic vinegar
The Method
Preheat the oven to 180˚C.
To make the sauce, sweat the garlic in the olive oil for a couple of minutes and then add the passata and stock. Reduce until thick and spreadable.
For the tart, mix the garlic and oregano with the olive oil. Spread the puff pastry discs with the tomato sauce, leaving a 1cm clear border, and then arrange the courgette slices over the top, overlapping each slice slightly. Crumble the goat’s cheese over the tarts. Drizzle with the garlic and herb oil and season well. Bake on a heavy baking sheet for 15–18 minutes until the pastry is golden and crispy. Remove to a cooling rack and allow to cool for 5 minutes before serving. Warm rather than piping hot is what you are looking for.
To serve, toss the rocket leaves with a little oil and salt and place small mounds in the centre of each tart. Drizzle a little of the vinegar onto the tarts and finish with some olive oil.
NOTE: This recipe makes enough sauce for around 20 portions but leftover sauce can be used for pizza or stirred into pasta.
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All images: Copyright © R.W.Brown